Skid Steer Hire

When is a tracked skid steer safer or better than a wheeled skid steer?

A tracked posi-track skid steer is safer and more capable than a wheeled skid steer when you’re working on soft, wet, slippery or unstable ground - including mud, clay, loose soil, sand, and steeper or uneven slopes. The tracks spread the machine’s weight over a wider surface area, giving you better traction, lower ground pressure and less risk of bogging or spinning out.

By comparison, a wheeled skid steer performs better on hard surfaces like asphalt, concrete, compacted gravel or rocky pads where tyres grip well and won’t wear out as fast.

When a tracked skid steer is the better/safer choice

When a wheeled skid steer is the better pick

Want help choosing the right type?

We’ve written two detailed guides comparing track vs wheel machines and matching the right setup to the job:

• Which skid steer loader is right for your job https://blog.iseekplant.com.au/blog/what-is-the-right-skid-steer-loader-for-my-job

• Are tracks or wheels better for a skid steer loader? https://blog.iseekplant.com.au/blog/are-tracks-or-wheels-better-for-a-skid-steer-loader

Bobcat is a popular brand of a skid steer loader. So essentially, there is no difference between a Bobcat and a skid steer loader! Bobcat is just a colloqiual term for a skid steer loader.

No HRW (High-Risk Work) licence is required for a skid steer in Australia - it’s not a "licence class" like cranes, EWPs or forklifts. BUT - a supplier has a choice as to whether they want to hire a machine dry hire to you, and may require you to prove you a competent in it's operation (particularly if it's for DIY residential applications).

People think skid steers need a “ticket” because excavators and loaders look like regulated plant. In law, only high-risk plant that lifts people or loads over a free surface (like cranes, EWPs, forklifts, etc.) requires a HRW licence. Skid steers don’t fall into those classes.

Learn more about the licensing process here!

Most commercial worksites will ask for proof you’re competent, which usually means a VOC (Verification of Competency) or a Statement of Attainment for RIIMPO318F, or proof of an extensive resume of operating a skid steer over a career.

What sites usually check before letting you operate one

Who supplies the VOC or ticket?

• If you’re a worker → your employer needs to verify competency (or pay for VOC).
• If you’re a contractor → head contractor or PCBU will insist on a VOC + white card.
• If you’re just hiring privately for your own property → usually no ticket needed, but the hire company may give you a short handover.

Checklist most hire companies or sites expect

• White Card
• VOC (or Statement of Attainment)
• PPE (boots, hi-vis, hard hat, glasses)
• Site induction completed
• You’re listed on SWMS or plant risk control docs if operating on a PCBU site

Yes – a skid steer can dig a shallow hole with a standard bucket, and it can drill a deep, vertical hole using an auger attachment. Where it differs from a true excavator is in precision and depth: skid steers can “scoop” into the ground effectively, but they aren’t designed for deep excavation or trenching that needs clean, vertical sides.

When it works well

• Shallow excavations (garden beds, turf removal, small cut-and-fill jobs)
• Level changes / shaping ground
• Post holes or deep narrow holes using an auger attachment
• Light trenching with the right attachment

Where it struggles

• Hard or rocky ground
• Deeper holes that need controlled depth and angle
• Digging close to structures, pipes, or services (a mini excavator is safer and more accurate)

Rule of thumb

A skid steer can move a lot of dirt quickly, but it can’t excavate deeply with the precision of a mini excavator. For shallow surface work it’s ideal; for anything deep or detailed, an excavator is usually the better choice.

Yes - with the right attachment a skid steer is a very capable grass-cutter.

Best attachments

• Rotary brush cutter / slasher: Fastest for long grass, blackberry, lantana and even saplings (often up to 75–100 mm on heavy-duty heads). Great for paddocks and rough blocks.
• Flail mower: Slower but tidier cut with better mulch. Good where you want fewer projectiles (parks, verges).
• (Less common) Finish mower: For lawn-like results, but a tractor or zero-turn usually does this better.

What your machine needs

Hydraulic flow: Match the head to your skid steer. • Standard-flow: ~15–25 GPM (≈57–95 L/min) • High-flow: ~26–46 GPM (≈98–174 L/min) Under-flow = bogging and poor cut; over-spec’d head = wasted money.

Cut width: 1.5–2.1 m (60 -84") is typical. Wider = faster in open paddocks; narrower = better in tight areas. Guarding: Front door (polycarbonate), chainskirts, debris curtains, and (often) a case-drain line for the motor.

When a skid steer shines

• Rough, tall, or tangled grass and scrub
• Uneven ground where a slash-and-mulch result is fine
• Tight access where a tractor can’t manoeuvre

Limitations

• It’s not a manicured lawn mower - expect a “brush-cut” finish.
• Mind flying debris: keep exclusion zones, spot for rocks/star pickets, and watch slopes.
• Tyred machines can scuff turf; compact track loaders are gentler on the ground.

Yes - with the right attachments you can “dozer” with a skid steer, but it won’t replace a real dozer for big cuts.

Dozer-Style Attachments

• Dozer blade attachment (6-way is best): push, cut, back-drag, and fine-grade.
• Spreader bar/level bar: fast finish-grading and pad prep.
• 4-in-1 bucket: handy for shaping, back-dragging and carrying spoil between passes.

When a skid steer is best as a dozer

• Tight sites and short pushes (driveways, pads, backyards).
• Light to moderate cuts/fills, windrowing, trimming batters.
• Quick touch-ups after the grader/dozer.

Limits vs a dozer

• Power & weight: far less tractive effort; it’ll spin before it bites on heavy cuts.
• Blade control: fewer degrees of freedom and shorter blade-harder to hold a long, flat plane.
• Ground pressure: CTL (tracks) outperforms wheeled skid steers on traction/finish; tyres scuff.
• Slope work: dozers are safer and steadier on steep or loose ground.
• Production: long pushes, deep cuts, rock, or stump-laden ground = dozer’s job.

In Summary:

• Skid steer + blade/bar = agile site finisher and small works hero.
• Bulldozer = bulk earthmoving, long pushes, steep/rough terrain, highest surface consistency under load.

Yes - a skid steer can dig a trench using a trencher attachment (or a backhoe attachment for deeper cuts). Trenchers are designed for long, narrow runs like irrigation, conduit, drainage or services, and they’ll cut clean, consistent depths far more efficiently than trying to “scoop” a trench with a standard bucket.

How well does it trench

A skid steer trencher will typically dig to around 600–1,200 mm deep depending on the model, and can handle most shallow-to-medium utilities on residential or light civil sites. For deeper or highly engineered trenches, an excavator is usually the better tool.

When a trencher works best

• Irrigation / garden drains
• Electrical conduit or water lines
• NBN/fibre runs
• French drains / agricultural drains
• Fence lines and rural property services

Alternatives

If you need vertical walls and more reach, a backhoe attachment can be used instead, especially where you’re shaping the bottom of the trench. For round holes (posts, footings), an auger is the right attachment.

Limitations

• Hard rock or heavy clay will slow production or require a heavier machine
• Width is fixed by the chain/bucket, so size the attachment to suit the service you’re laying
• Anything beyond 1-1.2 m usually calls for a mini excavator

Short answer for your landing page

A skid steer can definitely trench, provided it’s fitted with a trencher or backhoe attachment. It’s a fast and efficient option for shallow services, farm drains, conduit and property utilities without bringing in a bigger excavator.

A skid steer can generally handle slopes of up to around 30° (about a 58% grade) – but only if the ground is firm, compact and not slick. The steeper the slope, the more important traction becomes. On loose gravel, soft soil, or wet grass, you risk slipping, sliding, or even rolling the machine.

Tracked skid steers usually perform better than wheeled models on inclines because they spread weight over a larger surface area, but the same limits still apply - beyond 30° most manufacturers consider the risk unacceptable.

Think of a 2:1 batter (1m rise for every 2m horizontally) - if it’s steeper than that, you’re pushing the safe working limit for most skid steers.

Safe operating rules on slopes

• Keep the heavy end of the machine pointed uphill
• (empty bucket = rear heavy, full bucket = front heavy)
• Travel straight up and down, not sideways
• Avoid sudden movements that shift the centre of gravity
• Go slow - momentum increases rollover risk

Skid steer vs mini excavator - which is better for…

1) Stumps (removal + roots)

• Winner: Mini excavator

• Why: Dig depth, boom articulation, 360° swing, and a thumb let you undercut the root ball and lift it cleanly. Far less turf damage than ramming with a skid steer.

• Attachments: GP bucket + hydraulic thumb; ripper tooth for big taproots; small breaker if you hit rock.

• Skid steer use-case: Surface grinding small stumps flush with a stump grinder head when full extraction isn’t required.

2) Trenching (utilities, drains)

• Winner: Mini excavator (precision and depth)

• Why: Accurate grade control, narrow buckets, and depth >1 m with ease. Safer around services thanks to fine controls.

• Attachments: 200–300 mm trench bucket; tilt hitch if you want chef’s-kiss grades.

• Skid steer use-case: Fast, shallow, long runs with a chain trencher head, or post holes with an auger where a continuous trench isn’t needed.

3) Re-grading / leveling (driveways, pads, lawns)

• Winner: Skid steer (especially tracked/CTL)

• Why: High production pushing/spreading, quick passes, laser or 2D box-blade options. CTL’s low ground pressure leaves a nicer finish.

• Attachments: 4-in-1 bucket, dozer blade/spreader bar, laser box blade, power rake/Harley rake.

• Mini excavator role: Cut/shape edges, pull spoils from tight corners, then let the skid steer finish.

4) Land clearing (brush, saplings, debris)

• Split decision (depends on the brief):

• Skid steer wins for mulching and debris handling: high-flow head on a CTL chews scrub, then swap to grapple/pallet forks to stack and load.

• Mini excavator wins for selective clearing & extraction: pluck small trees whole, windrow with a thumb, less soil disturbance.

• Attachments: CTL + forestry mulcher / brush cutter / grapple vs. excavator + thumb / grab / rake.

5) Tight access (backyards, between structures)

• Winner: Mini excavator (most of the time)

• Why: Zero/short tail-swing, retractable undercarriages on micro units, and the ability to work parallel to walls without constant repositioning.

• Skid steer edge: Indoors/hardstand where zero-turn and low headroom matter and you’re moving lots of material, not digging deep.

Cost, speed, and surface impact (rules of thumb)

• Speed: Skid steers move more material per hour on flats; excavators move earth more precisely per hour when digging.
• Surface impact: CTLs (tracked skid steers) and minis are both gentle on soft ground; wheeled skid steers are best kept to hardstand.
• Swap-time tax: Every skid steer attachment swap costs minutes; excavators keep the same tool (bucket+thumb) through many operations.

For readers comparing machines and undercarriages, link internally here:

• Which skid steer loader is right for your job https://blog.iseekplant.com.au/blog/what-is-the-right-skid-steer-loader-for-my-job
• Are tracks or wheels better for a skid steer loader? https://blog.iseekplant.com.au/blog/are-tracks-or-wheels-better-for-a-skid-steer-loader

A used skid steer normally makes financial sense once you’re putting it to work regularly, not occasionally. The rough rule of thumb in the industry is:

If you’re using a machine more than 2 - 3 days per week on average, or more than 600 - 800 billable hours per year, it’s usually cheaper to own than hire.

Where it tips over into ownership value is when the machine is no longer a “nice-to-have,” but a core production tool for your revenue.

When buying makes sense

• Recurring or seasonal works (civil landscaping, concreting, fencing, small earthworks)
• You’re losing time waiting for hire availability during peak periods
• You use multiple attachments, and changing jobs mid-day is common (hire costs balloon when attachments are added)
• You want to tender more work, not just react to booked jobs
• You can store, insure, and maintain the machine affordably

For a small contractor, buying used (instead of new) often hits the sweet spot: depreciation is lower, repayments are manageable, and you can recover value on resale.

When hiring still makes more sense

• You only need a skid steer occasionally (weekend jobs or 1–2 short projects a month)
• Your work mix changes frequently and you’re not sure which size or undercarriage you really need yet
• You don’t have storage or security for owned machinery
• You don’t want to wear breakdown risk or service/tyre/track costs
• You want access to newer machines without capital outlay

The real tipping point: “utilisation”

Most contractors that regret buying did so too early - before they had steady machine utilisation. The ones that are glad they bought generally:

• Were previously spending $20k+ per year on hire
• Had at least one attachment-heavy trade (e.g. fencing, landscaping, concreting, plumbing/civil service trenching)
• Knew which size class they actually needed

Ownership costs to factor in (beyond the sticker price)

• Filters & servicing (250–500 hour intervals)
• Tracks/tyres (particularly for posi-track on hardstand)
• Insurance & registration
• Storage & security
• Transport if you don’t own a trailer/truck

The smart progression path

1. Hire first - learn what size/config you actually use most
2. Track your hire spend & utilisation
3. Upgrade to ownership once spend > repayments
4. Keep hiring “specialised attachments” rather than buying everything

A skid steer runs on wheels, while a compact track loader (posi-track runs on rubber or metal tracks. Both are skid steers, but we are just talking about different propulsion systems.

That difference changes where each machine performs best:

Skid steers (wheeled units)

• Best on hard, flat surfaces like concrete, asphalt and gravel
• Tighter turning circle and faster travel speed
• Usually cheaper to maintain and transport (lighter weight)
• But wheels can tear up turf and bog in soft ground

Tracked loaders (Posi-Tracks)

• Tracks spread the machine’s weight, giving better flotation and stability on muddy, sandy or soft soil
• Handle steep or uneven terrain much more safely
• Provide a smoother ride and less ground disturbance
• But they wear faster on hard surfaces and can be more expensive to maintain

Both machines can use the same attachments and lift in similar ways, but the terrain and surface conditions are usually the deciding factor.

They can, but not without care - a skid steer will almost always mark or stress turf if you turn sharply or work when the ground is soft. Both wheeled and tracked units can damage lawns because they “skid” to turn, which can rip up grass and compact the soil underneath. Tracked machines spread weight better, but the turning friction still tears turf if you’re not careful.

The biggest risk isn’t the tyres vs tracks – it’s soil compaction and turning force.

How to minimise grass damage

• Work in dry conditions where possible (wet soil tears easily)
• Drive straight lines, avoid tight / zero-radius turns
• Use rubber ground mats / bog mats for protection on established lawns
• Keep travel speed low and avoid sudden pivots
• If possible, use a mini excavator instead where the tracks don’t need to skid to turn

When a skid steer will almost always leave marks

• On wet or freshly laid turf
• On soft or sandy soils
• On steep slopes where you need to pivot frequently
• When doing repetitive work in a small area

When you’re more likely to get away with it

• On firm, dry, well-rooted turf (like sporting ovals)
• With long slow turns, no spinning or dragging
• With bog mats or plywood sheets creating a buffer